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Proper suspension
adjustment and maintenance can make an incredible difference
on the track or trail! Enjoy the latest tech tip
article from our suspension expert Quinton Cain
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Suspension Knowledge: Leaking Fork
Seals
By
Quinton Cain of SUSPENSION DYNAMICS
You
can count on the fact that all fork seals will eventually
leak, sometimes even if you do not ride your bike.
There are two things YOU can do that
will extend the life of your seals:
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Prevent mud from DRYING on the
chrome tube. The dust wiper cannot remove this, and all
of this crusty dirt scrapes by the seal lip dulling the
sharp edge to the point that the seal does not wipe
well, inviting in more dirt. Be sure to also remove the
dirt near the bottom of the tube that hides behind your
fork guards.
-
Remove burrs on the chrome tube
that come from hitting rocks or other bikes, in some
cases. The burrs do the same thing as the dried dirt,
except on one area of the seal only. The fork tubes
should be de-burred and polished in ONLY the affected
area. In other words, you do not want to polish the
entire tube. Doing so will compromise the ENTIRE
surface that is specially designed to retain an ultra
thin film of oil, making it nice and slippery.
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Adjusting the “clickers”
By
Quinton Cain of SUSPENSION DYNAMICS
After
speaking with many riders and parents over the years, I
thought it may be helpful to clarify some of the
misinformation on suspension adjusters, also known as
“clickers”.
In most cases, as you turn the adjusters clockwise, you
increase the dampening, which makes the suspension stiffer. This is the
same as making it “harder” or “slower”. The adjuster moves a needle valve
that controls the free oil flow, and as you limit that oil flow, you increase
the dampening. Plus (+) and minus (-) indicator arrows correspond to more
and less dampening. It is the same with (H) and (S) indicators, which
stand for Hard and Soft. Be aware that there are exceptions to this
“clockwise equals stiffer” relationship. One example of this is the
compression adjuster on the KTM shocks from a few years back.
Read on ... |
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Balance
and Sag
by Quinton Cain of
SUSPENSION DYNAMICS
Let’s clear
up some confusion and dispel some myths.
I will explain sag
and how it is measured. I will also explain an often
overlooked aspect of the bike known as balance.
Balance is what you want
to achieve. Sag is what you adjust to get it.
Race sag,
also known as rider sag, is the distance a bike settles down
from its fully extended position when a rider is on board. Free sag is a
similar measurement, but with no rider on board. Your free
sag should never be zero. Typical ranges are 15 to 35 mm.
Balance is
just what it sounds like. The front and rear of the bike
should go down at approximately the same rate.
Read on ...
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How suspension can affect turning
by Quinton Cain
of SUSPENSION DYNAMICS
Bouncing out of
ruts? drifting to the outside? tucking under? It’s probably
just YOU, but your suspension and bike setup could
be partly to blame.
Read on ...
Bouncing out of ruts? drifting to the
outside? tucking under? It’s probably just YOU, but your
suspension and bike setup could be partly to
blame.
I will list some of the changes you can
make to your bike that will affect turning. But first, a
secret that will help you understand how these
changes effectively work.
Basically, any change
you make to the bike or to your riding position that ALTERS
the steering angle of the bike will affect turning. Having
the fork tubes at a steeper angle will make the bike turn
sharper. That is it. |
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